Improving properties of Viscose fabric by water repellent finish

Science & Technology Development Journal – Engineering and Technology, 4(1):696-703
 Open Access Full Text Article Research Article
Improving properties of Viscose fabric by water repellent finish
Trinh Thi Kim Hue*, Bui Mai Huong
 ABSTRACT
 Viscose is the most abundantly available man-made cellulose fibers. Viscose has several good func-
 tional properties such as high water absorption, easier dye ability, comfort feel when wearing. Most
 Use your smartphone to scan this of the apparel products are made of cellulose based fabrics. However, the disadvantages of viscose
QR code and download this article fabrics include the low dimensional stability, easy wrinkle. To enhance the functional properties of
 viscose fabrics, many finishing processes have been applied such as water repellent finishing. One
 of the acrylate polymers was used to finish textiles is fluorocarbons. They applied to the cellulose
 fabric surface can significantly improve contact angle between water drops and fabric surface as
 well as other properties. In this paper, Nuva1811, Ruco Dry ECO, FW-500D were evaluated the im-
 pact on viscose fabric. The efficiency of the process implementation was determined by measuring
 and analyzing the physical properties of fabric samples. Viscose fabric treated with Nuva 1811 60
 g/l was evalutated the high water repellency with level 4 after finishing. However, the washing
 fastness properties was decreased slightly. When applied in the fiber, the polymer will form a struc-
 ture that presents CF3 outer surface for maximum repellency. Fluorocarbons provides fiber surfaces
 with the lowest surface energies of all repellent finishes. The results show that the viscose reveals
 the higher wet strength, indicating the possibility of FC deposited on the surface of fibers to the
 capillary inter fiber or inter yarn spaces in the fabric. Tensile strength of viscose fabric was increased
 24.6%. The shrinkage percentage of coated viscose was decreased (only 3% when was treated with
 Nuva 1811 compare to the untreated fabric 9.5%). Furthermore, the abrasion resistance of viscose
 fabric has increased because the weight loss of fabric was decreased (0.42% when was treated with
 Nuva 1811 for 1000 cycles compare to the untreated fabric 1.4%). The morphology of the untreated
 and treated viscose fabrics were characterized via a scanning electron microscope.
 Key words: Viscose, wet strength, water repellent, chemical finish, fabric
Department of Textile Garment
Engineering, Faculty of Mechanical
Engineering, Ho Chi Minh City
University of Technology, VNU-HCM, INTRODUCTION the form of droplets on the surface of the fabric, caus-
Vietnam
 ing water droplets not to spread over the surface and
 Today viscose is an important cellulosic fiber mostly
Correspondence prevent the fabric from getting wet. The water re-
 used in textiles. The most abundant source of cellu-
 sistance of the fabric mainly involves in textile fiber
Trinh Thi Kim Hue, Department of Textile lose is wood, of which it constitutes about 50%. Reg-
Garment Engineering, Faculty of properties and the density of the textile materials. The
 ular viscose is different from cotton in having non fib-
Mechanical Engineering, Ho Chi Minh hydrophobicity of the fiber is evaluated by the dif-
City University of Technology, rills, having no lumen, and having a much lower de-
VNU-HCM, Vietnam ference in surface energy between fabric and liquid.
 gree of polymerisation. Viscose staple fibers are pro-
 It is reasonable to make difference between ”water-
Email: ttkhue@hcmut.edu.vn duced in the types of linear densities ranging from 0.1
 repellent” with ”waterproof”. ”Water-repellent fabric”
History to 0.8 tex and lengths from 40 to 120 mm to suit the
• Received: 02-11-2020 is a fabric with many holes and is capable of vent-
• characteristics of other commonly used textile fibers ing and evaporating water. This fabric allows the wa-
 Accepted: 27-02-2021 1,2
• Published: 15-03-2021 such as cotton, silk . The fabric made from vis- ter to pass through it when the used pressure is high
 cose fibers will be soft, comfortable in hot and humid
DOI : 10.32508/stdjet.v4i1.788 enough. ”Waterproof fabric” is water resistant fabric
 conditions, drape well, highly absorbent and easy to under hydrostatic pressure much higher than ”Water-
 dye. However, viscose fabrics have not so high dimen- repellent fabric”. This fabric has fewer holes and the
 sional stability in washing, creasing, and tend to very air permeability and water vapor is also worse 2,3. All
 strong stretch. Compared with cotton or the other cel- of those finishing methods must ensure the breatha-
Copyright
 lulose such as lyocell, modal, viscose has the several bility and the comfort of the fabric. FC provides the
© VNU-HCM Press. This is an open-
 disadvantages of much lower breaking strength, par-
access article distributed under the lowest surface energie ... for
 6–8
 nology on 100% Viscose fabric . The three differ- 5 min.
 ent water repellent options used are Nuva 1811 com-
 bines acetic acid; Ruco Dry combines acetic acid and Table 1: The details of treatment method 1
 FW-500D combines acetic acid. The repellency, ten- Recipe name Chemical concentrations
 sile strength, abrasion durability tests and SEM image
 Nuva 1811 Acetic acid
 analysis are used to characterize and compare the wa-
 (g/l) (ml/l)
 ter repellent performance of the three methods.where
 is citation 9? N40 40 3
 MATERIALS AND METHODS N50 50 3
 N60 60 3
 Materials
 The plain woven 100% viscose fabric, , mass per unit
 area of fabric 2.05 g/m2, count of warp 65 threads
 − − Ruco Dry ECO with catalyst acetic acid
 cm 1, count of weft 50 threads cm 1, were scoured
 and supplied by Tam Xuan Company in Viet Nam. The samples were padded to 80% wet pickup approx-
 Samples were prepared with the size of 20 cm × 20 imately with prepared solutions. The padded fabrics
 ◦ ◦
 cm. were dried at 110 C for 3 min, and cured at 150 C for
 The chemicals used to include Nuva 1811 (Archroma, 5 min.
 Switzerland); Ruco Dry ECO (Rudolf, Germany); Table 2: The details of treatment method 2
 FW-500D (R.O.C, Taiwan); acetic acid (99.9%) were
 Recipe
 purchased from Xilong Chem Co. Ltd. (China). Chemical concentrations
 name
 Three kinds of chemicals are fluorocarbon- based Ruco Dry ECO Acetic acid (ml/l)
 acrylate polymer. Nuva 1811 is C6 based fluorocar- (g/l)
 bon. Ruco Dry ECO is made from FC wax. It has
 R40 40 3
 proper characteristics as the cationic, water repellency
 is very good with monomers with the trend of sustain- R50 50 3
 able developments. FW-500D is C8 based fluorocar- R60 60 3
 bon.
 FW-500D with catalyst acetic acid
 The samples were padded to 80% wet pickup approx-
 imately with prepared solutions. The padded fabrics
 ◦ ◦
 were dried at 110 C for 3 min, and cured at 150 C for
 5 min.
 Table 3: The details of treatment method 3
 Recipe name Chemical concentrations
 FW-500D (g/l) Acetic acid
 (ml/l)
 Figure 1: Chemical structure of perfluorinated acry-
 late. F40 40 3
 F50 50 3
 F60 60 3
 Treatment methods
 Three treatment methods were applied. The sample
 code was marked as Xa where X is the type of chemi- Water repellent rating measurement
 cals, a is the code of different chemical concentrations Rating test was used AATCC-22 (Spray test). The wa-
 as described in Tables 1, 2 and 3. ter repellent rating was performed according to the
 697
Science & Technology Development Journal – Engineering and Technology, 4(1):696-703
 level from 0 to 5.
 Tensile strength and abrasion resistance
 measurements
 The tensile strength of the fabric was tested with ISO
 13934-1:1999. Abrasion resistance test was deter-
 mined with ISO 12947-3. The tests were conducted
 at different cycles to check the weight loss of fabrics.
 Dimensional stability
 Dimensional stability test was determined with
 AATCC-135.
 Characterization
 The morphology of the fabric samples were charac-
 terized via using scanning electron microscopy (SEM,
 Zeiss Evo10).
 Washing Test
 The Washing procedure was performed following
 standard test method AATCC -135. The setting tem-
 ◦
 perature for washing test was approximately 40 C.
 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
 Repellent results
 The untreated viscose fabrics exhibited no water re-
 pellent. The drops of water will spread on the surface
 of fabric. The contact angle between the contact an-
 gle between the water drop and the fabric surface is
 ◦
 smaller than 30 . Nuva1811 has revealed clearly an
 excellent improvement in making drops of water stay
 on the surface and drip off easily. The obtained test-
 ing value was level 4 at 60 g/l of the Nuva 1811 finish.
 The results were given in Table 4, Figure 2. Figure 2: Water repellent capacity of Viscose fabric
 treated with N60 (a), R60(b), F60(c) after 24h.
 Table 4: Repellency results (the best rating in each
 method) after finishing treatment on fabric
 Method Repellency rating Water
 clearly observed from Figure 2 that It is greater than
 ◦
 No treatment 0 90 . This results show that the formation of FC layer
 N60 4 on viscose fiber which was responsible not to be wet
 or repel water.
 R60 3.5
 The repellent washing fastness of the finishing vis-
 F60 3 cose fabric was greatly maximum to 10 washing.
 *‘0’ is zero; fabric sample is absolutely wet. Nuva 1811 is fluorocarbon polymer which is synthe-
 sized from acrylate monomers and can form sufficient
 The water on treated fabric will not spread on the sur- functional groups for binding and adhering on the
 face of fabric. The drops of water were not much con- surface of fibers or inter fibers in the viscose fabric.
 tacted with fabric surface. So mechanism can be that cross-linking of the cellu-
 In method 1,2,3 when dripping the water drops on lose and the Nuva 1811 (C-O-C) creates the linkage in
 the fabric surface, the contact angle between the wa- treating process is better and the washing fastness of
 ter drop and the fabric surface is much increased. It is samples were good. The results were given in Table 5.
 698
Science & Technology Development Journal – Engineering and Technology, 4(1):696-703
 Table 5: Effect of 10 washing cycles on the durability Table 6: Weight loss of viscose for different cycles
 of finish
 Recipe name Weight loss (%)
 Method Repellency rating Wa-
 500 cycles 1000 cycles
 ter
 No treatment 0.9 1.4
 No treatment 0
 N40 0.42 0.73
 N60 4
 N50 0.49 0.56
 R60 3
 N60 0.3 0.42
 F60 2
 *‘0’ is zero; fabric sample is absolutely wet R40 0.38 0.67
 R50 0.23 0.49
 The washing test after finishing exhibited thatthe R60 0.39 0.46
 treated fabric remained the repellent ability at level
 2-4 and the droplet retaining time ensured at 4h. F40 0.42 0.6
 The different methods strongly influenced on wash- F50 0.39 0.7
 ing fastness of treated fabrics.
 F60 0.27 0.47
 Regarding the tensile strength of fabric, it can be
 seen that the strength of all finished fabric increased
 compared to untreated fabric. The untreated viscose that the existence of Nuva 1811 layer adhered onto the
 has poor wet strength (70.4 for warp and 112.8 for viscose fibers after treating processes. There were no
 weft). Viscose has a higher water absorbency than samples with deformation in the fabric structure or
 cotton or the other cellulose. When penetrating wa- damages on fibre surface. It can be confirmed that the
 ter, the fabric will uptake more water and begin to chemical used in these treatment are safe and feasi-
 much swell. It is reasonable to make fiber to decrease ble for fabric. Surface of fabric is rough in case of us-
 breaking strength on it. After finishing process, the ing FW-500D. The reason can be that the presence of
 surface energy of the treated fiber will decrease ob- chemical coated on fabric surface is not uniform.
 viously. Therefore it can lead to absorb lower water
 and enhance the wet resistance. Finally, recipe viscose CONCLUSION
 treated with Nuva 1811 60g/l has showed the high- All testing results in this study confirmed that the wa-
 est wet strength (140.6 lbf for weft). The results were ter repellent finished fabric exhibited the good prop-
 shown in Figure 3. erties. The samples N60 of method 1 showed a mild
 As the results were presented in Figure 4, fabric be- water repellent ability with a concentration of 60 g/l.
 fore finishing has the low wet elongation (29.2 %for The samples finished with method 2 and 3 proved the
 warp and 31.2 % for weft). After the water repellent good repellent as they finished with FC chain C6 and
 finishing, elongation was improved (44.6% for warp C8. In general, the water repellent capacity of the fin-
 and 34.2% for weft). Recipe viscose treated with Nuva ished fabric is reduced, but not worth much after 10
 1811 60g/l has showed the highest elongation. washing cycles. The aim in the study is to improve
 To durability, original viscose obtained 0.9% weight the disadvantages of viscose fabric including its wet
 loss in 500 cycles and 1.4% weight in 1000 cycles. Af- resistance and these physical properties were greatly
 ter padding finishing, the weight loss of viscose was changed by using of water repellent finishes. Elon-
 decreased (0.3 % and 0.42% at N60 for 500 cycles and gation at the wet condition was improved. Similarly,
 1000 cycles). The results were presented in Table 6. fabric tensile strength was also increased after finish-
 As given in Table 6, we have found that fabric’s abra- ing with FC chemicals. Viscose fabric shrinks higher
 sion resistance has increased gradually after finishing than the other cellulose fabrics. Abrasion resistance
 with the water repellent agents. and dimensional stability of viscose were also consid-
 The coated viscose has shrinkage percentage (at N60- erably increased after utilizing the potential finishing
 3%) compare to the untreated fabric (9.5%). The agent in textile industry. The results also showed that
 treated viscose fabric improved the shrink resistant of the sample with the best water repellent was N60 in
 fabric after washing. The results were shown in Fig- method 1. Therefore viscose has a very good sustain-
 ure 5. able development trend to replace the other cellulose
 SEM analysis images of samples as presented in Fig- fabrics after using different FC polymers to finish wa-
 ure 6 with 500x manification. SEM images confirmed ter repellent.
 699
Science & Technology Development Journal – Engineering and Technology, 4(1):696-703
 Figure 3: Changes in tensile strengh of treated viscose fabric compared to untreated fabric (wet condition)
 Figure 4: Changes in elongation % of treated viscose fabric compared to untreated fabric (wet condition)
 700
Science & Technology Development Journal – Engineering and Technology, 4(1):696-703
 Figure 5: Changes in shrinkage % of treated viscose fabric compared to untreated fabric (wet condition)
 Figure 6: SEM image of untreated viscose (a)and treated viscose fabric N60,R60,F60 (b,c,d)
 701
Science & Technology Development Journal – Engineering and Technology, 4(1):696-703
 ACKNOWLEDGMENT REFERENCES
 This research is funded by Ho Chi Minh City Univer- 1. Heywood D. Textile finishing, Chapter 1,2, Bradford, Eng.: Soci-
 ety of Dyers and Colourist. 2003;.
 sity of Technology-VNU-HCM under grant number 2. Williams JT. Waterproof and Water Repellent Textiles and Cloth-
 T-CK-2019-22. ing. Woodhead Publishing. 2018;.
 3. Sato Y, et al. Effect of Crosslinking Agents on Water Repel-
 ABBREVIATIONS lency of Cotton Fabrics Treated with Fluorocarbon Resin. Textile
 Research Journal . 1994;64(6):316–320. Available from: https:
 FC: Fluorocarbon //doi.org/10.1177/004051759406400602.
 SEM: Scanning Electron Microscope 4. Castelvetro V, Francini G, Ciardelli G, Ceccato M. Evaluating Flu-
 orinated Acrylic Latices as Textile Water and Oil Repellent Fin-
 ishes. Textile Research Journal. 2001;7(5):399–406. Available
 CONFLICT OF INTERESTS from: https://doi.org/10.1177/004051750107100506.
 5. Morton WE, Hearle JWS. Physical properties of textile fibres
 The author declares that there is no conflict of interests
 - Fourth edition. Woodhead Publishing. 2008;Available from:
 regarding the publication of this paper. https://doi.org/10.1201/9781439831830.
 6. Schindler WD, Hauser PJ. Chemical Finishing of textiles. Wood-
 AUTHORS’ CONTRIBUTION head Publishing. 2004;Available from: https://doi.org/10.1201/
 9781439823477.
 Trinh Thi Kim Hue is in charge of all research content 7. Paul R. Functional Finishes for Textiles: Improving Comfort, Per-
 presented in the article. formance and Protection. Woodhead Publishing. 2014;.
 8. Rowen JW, Gagliardi D. Properties of Water-Repellent Fabrics.
 Bui Mai Huong check and review the article. 1947;38. Available from: https://doi.org/10.6028/jres.038.002.
 9. Choudhury AKR. Principles of Textile Finishing, Woodhead Pub-
 lishing. 2017;.
 702
Tạp chí Phát triển Khoa học và Công nghệ – Kĩ thuật và Công nghệ, 4(1):696-703
 Open Access Full Text Article Bài nghiên cứu
Nghiên cứu cải thiện tính chất của vải viscose bằng phương pháp
hoàn tất chống thấm
Trịnh Thị Kim Huệ*, Bùi Mai Hương
 TÓM TẮT
 Viscose có nguồn gốc từ cellulose, loại vải rẻ nhất trong các loại vải gốc cellulose có thể là lựa chọn
 thay thế tốt nhất hiện nay. Viscose được sản xuất từ cellulose tái sinh. Viscose là một sản phẩm dệt
 Use your smartphone to scan this thân thiện với môi trường. Do đó, nhu cầu về các sản phẩm dệt thân thiện với môi trường tăng
 QR code and download this article sẽ làm tăng nhu cầu về sợi visco và giảm bớt sản lượng cotton như hiện nay. Vải viscose thể hiện
 một số tính chất tương tự như vải cotton ngoại trừ độ bền ướt kém do độ hồi ẩm cao hơn. Trong
 nghiên cứu này, hoàn tất hoá học bằng các chất liên kết ngang khác nhau đã được áp dụng để
 cải thiện độ bền ướt của vải viscose. Các polymer acrylate gốc fluorocarbon như Nuva1811, Ruco
 Dry ECO, FW-500D được đánh giá trên vải viscose. Vải được xử lý với Nuva 1811 60 g/l có kết quả
 chống thấm nước tốt trước khi giặt. Kết quả chống thấm trên vải đạt mức 4 sau khi xử lý. Tuy nhiên,
 mức chống thấm giảm sau khi giặt. Các chuỗi fluorocarbon của polyacrylate được định hướng ra
 ngoài bề mặt xơ và các nhóm –CF2CF3 hình thành một lớp chống thấm năng lượng thấp. Hoàn
 tất chống thấm nước giúp làm giảm lực cản giữa các phân tử xơ riêng lẻ và làm giảm sức căng bề
 mặt của vải. Nó làm giảm khả năng thấm hút của vải viscose dẫn đến làm tăng độ bền ướt. Vì vậy,
 vải viscose đã qua xử lý thể hiện độ bền ướt tốt hơn sau khi đã hoàn tất chống thấm lên nó. Độ
 bền kéo của vải viscose tăng lên 24.6 %. Độ co của vải viscose chỉ còn 3% sau khi xử lý với Nuva
 1811 so với vải chưa xử lý có độ co là 9,5%. Độ mài mòn cũng đã giảm chỉ còn 0,42% cho trường
 hợp 1000 vòng sau khi xử lý với Nuva 1811 so với vải chưa xử lý là 1,4%. Kính hiển vi điện tử quét
 (SEM) được sử dụng để kiểm tra bề mặt của vải sau khi xử lý bằng hoá chất.
 Từ khoá: Viscose, độ bền ướt, chống thấm nước, hoàn tất hoá học, vải
 Bộ môn Kỹ thuật Dệt may, Khoa Cơ khí,
 Trường Đại học Bách khoa TP HCM,
 ĐHQG-HCM, Việt Nam
 Liên hệ
 Trịnh Thị Kim Huệ, Bộ môn Kỹ thuật Dệt
 may, Khoa Cơ khí, Trường Đại học Bách khoa
 TP HCM, ĐHQG-HCM, Việt Nam
 Email: ttkhue@hcmut.edu.vn
 Lịch sử
 • Ngày nhận: 02-11-2020
 • Ngày chấp nhận: 27-02-2021 
 • Ngày đăng: 15-03-2021
 DOI : 10.32508/stdjet.v4i1.788 
 Bản quyền
 © ĐHQG Tp.HCM. Đây là bài báo công bố
 mở được phát hành theo các điều khoản của
 the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0
 International license.
 Trích dẫn bài báo này: Huệ T T K, Hương B M. Nghiên cứu cải thiện tính chất của vải viscose bằng 
 phương pháp hoàn tất chống thấm. Sci. Tech. Dev. J. - Eng. Tech.; 4(1):696-703.
 703