Effect of seams on drape behaviour of cotton woven fabrics

 ISBN 2354-0575 
 EFFECT OF SEAMS ON DRAPE BEHAVIOUR OF COTTON WOVEN FABRICS 
 Nguyen Thi Le 
 Hung Yen University of Technology and Education 
 Received: 01/10/2016 
 Revised: 31/10/2016 
 Accepted for publication: 15/11/2016 
Abstract 
 Drape of fabric is one of the characteristics which influence significantly on the appearance 
quality of clothes. The structure of patterns and seams affect the drape behaviour of fabric. Investigating 
of the influence of seams to the drape behaviour of the fabric can improve apparel design and the 
selection of the structure, the direction of seams in accordance with the requirements of aesthetic quality 
as well as the shape of the garment. This article presents the effect of three seams on the drape behaviour 
of five medium cotton woven fabrics. Experimental fabrics are given diametral seams. Warp, weft and 45o 
bias seams were sewn. Three types of seams, which content 301, 401 and 504 stitches, were applied to 
observe the effect of seams on the drape of fabrics. Drape properties of initial and seamed fabrics were 
determined using ADS-LAST drapemeter according to BS 5058: 1973 standard. The experimental results 
indicate that drape profile and number of folds are changed while changing type and direction of seams. 
There is a significant proportional linear correlation between drape coefficients of seamed and initial 
fabrics. 
Keywords: Drape coefficient, Seam, Drape profile. 
 radial seams [5]. Their results showed that the 
1. Introduction drape coefficient (DC) increases with the number 
 Drape describes the ability of a textile of seams, but it is sightly affected by increases in 
material to orient itself into folds in more than one the seam allowance. Nuray Ucar et al. analyzed 
plane under its own weight [1]. Drape is an the effect of overlock seams (stitch type 516, seam 
important property that decides the gracefulness of type SSa-1) on the drape behaviour of heavy 
any garment as it is related to aesthetics of weight knit fabrics to provide prediction equations 
garments. Fabric’s drape is a complex for drape using image analysis [6]. Suda & 
mathematical problem involving large Nagasaka investigated the effect of seams on the 
deformations under low stresses. Drape shapes of drape shape of a skirt [7]. They bonded nonwoven 
the garments may be affected by many factors such fabric trips onto a circular specimen along the edge 
as fabric, structure, pattern details and seams,... and in the radial directions to simulate the drape of 
 J. Hu and S. Chung presented a the skirt. They concluded that the bending coefficient 
fundamental drape analysis of seamed fabrics of the bonded part increased with the width and 
using Cusick’s drapemeter [2]. Seven woven number of bonded layers of the nonwoven fabric. 
fabrics with various fiber contents of cotton, linen, Kaushal et al. studied the effect of sewing and fusing 
silk, wool and polyester are given radial and of interlining on the drape behaviour of men’s suiting 
circular 403 seams. Hu et al. studied the effect of a wool fabrics [8]. Four types of seams, which content 
plain seam (lockstitch 301) on the drape structure 402 and 301 stitches, were applied to observe the 
of a woven fabric [3]. Simona Jevšnik and Darja effect of type of seam on the drape. Chu et al. studied 
Žuni Lojen [4], Ashok Itagi, Arindam Basu the effect of the seam 516 on the drape coefficient of 
consided the drape behaviour of silk fabrics with vixco fabrics. The results showed that there were a 
Khoa học & Công Nghệ - Số 12/Tháng 12 – 2016 Journal of Science and Technology 47 
ISBN 2354-0575 
significant correlation between the DCs (Drape stitches. A Protex TY-8805SE and Organ 
Coefficients) of seamed and initial fabrics (R = 0.8- DB#90/14 needle were used for sewing 401 and 
0.86). Sidabraite and Masteikaite studied the effect of 504 stitches. Specimens were prepared according 
seams on the drape profile of a narrow skirt [9]. to BS 5058: 1973 standard [1]. The diameter D2 of 
Narrow skirts were made from six lightweight woven the test speciment is 30cm. The diameters D1 of discs 
fabrics (cotton, polyester, vixco and mixed fabrics). are 18cm (Fig. 2). S1, S2, S3 radial seams (Table 2) 
 were sewn on the fabric samples according to the 
 Initial studies showed that the shapes of the 
 warp, weft and 45o bias directions (Fig. 1). 
pattern details and the used seams affect greatly 
 Table 2. Experimental stitches and seams 
the fabric drape. Once the fabric is joined with 
seams possibly its drape configuration would vary. Stitch 
It is very essential to understand to the change in type Code of Figure of seam type 
drape behaviour of fabrics under goes once it is seam 
seamed. Thus, investigating the effect of typical 504, 301 S1 
seams on fabric drape has a significant value for 
 301 S2 
both the textile and clothing industries. 
 The aim of this study is to analyze the 
 ... 5.68 76.68 79.74 81.72 
 Table 4. The fold numbers of fabric and seamed samples 
 Fold Fold number of warp Fold number of weft Fold number of 45o 
 Fabric number seamed sample seamed sample bias seamed sample 
 sample of 
 fabric S1 S2 S3 S1 S2 S3 S1 S2 S3 
 1 10 7 8 8 7 7 8 8 8 8 
 2 7 5 6 8 9 7 8 8 8 6 
 3 7 7 6 8 8 8 8 9 9 7 
 4 7 7 7 7 7 9 7 7 7 7 
 5 7 8 6 8 8 7 8 6 5 7 
Khoa học & Công Nghệ - Số 12/Tháng 12 – 2016 Journal of Science and Technology 49 
ISBN 2354-0575 
 In most cases, the DCs of S1 warp seamed 
samples were decreased in comparison with the 
DCs of the initial fabrics (except fabric 4), but the 
difference is not much. Absolute maximum of the 
decrease is 2.59%. The DCs of S1 weft seamed 
samples were significantly increased in comparison 
with the DCs of the S1 warp seamed samples and 
initial fabrics (except fabric 5). Absolute maximum 
of the increase is 6.01%. The DCs of S1 bias seamed 
samples were decreased in comparison with the 
DCs of the initial fabrics (except fabrics 1, 3, the 
differences are small, about 0.56 and 1.42%, 
respectively). In three directions, S1 weft seams affect 
mostly the DCs (except fabric 5) (Fig. 3). 
 83
 80 fabric 1
 77 fabric 2
 fabric 3
 74
 DC (%) fabric 4
 71
 fabric 5
 68
 65
 F warp weft bias
 direction of seam 
 Fig.5. The drape profiles of the S1 seamed samples. 
 Fig.3. The DCs of S1 seamed samples Codes: first number - code of fabric, S1- code of 
 seam, W - warp, w - weft, B- bias, 4th number - 
 12
 ordinal number of sample 
 10
 For fabric samples without seams the folds 
 8 fabric
 S1 warp sewn fabric are not regularly distributed. The drape shapes of 
 6
 S1 weft sewn fabric the S1 bias seamed (fabric 1, 2, 3, 4) and warp 
 4 S1 bias sewn fabric
 number of folds number of seamed samples (fabric 5) are more regularly than 
 2
 another S1 seamed samples (Fig. 5). The fold 
 0
 12345 numbers of the S1 seamed samples vary depending 
 fabric on the type of fabric (Fig. 4). 
 Fig.4. The fold numbers of the S1 seamed samples 
 83
 80
 fabric 1
 77 fabric 2
 fabric 3
 74
 DC (%) fabric 4
 71 fabric 5
 68
 65
 F warp weft bias
 direction of seam
 Fig.6. The DCs of S2 seamed samples 
50 Khoa học & Công Nghệ - Số 12/Tháng 12 – 2016 Journal of Science and Technology 
 ISBN 2354-0575 
 The DCs of S2 seamed samples on fabric 5 
were decreased in comparison with the DC of the 
initial fabric. In the remaining cases, the DCs of S2 
warp seamed samples were increased in 1S2w1 
comparison with the DCs of the initial fabrics, but 
the difference is not much. Absolute maximum of 
the increase is 3.15%. The number of folds for the 
S2 warp and weft seamed samples is mostly 
smaller or equal when compared with fabrics 
without seam (except S2 weft seamed sample on 1S2B1 
fabric 1). The DCs of S2 weft seamed samples 
were clearly increased in comparison with the DCs 
of the S2 warp seamed samples and initial fabrics. 
In three directions, S2 weft seams affect mostly the 
DCs (Fig. 6). The differences of the DCs of S2 
bias seamed samples were not much. Absolute 
maximum of the increase is 2.11%.The drape shapes 
of the S2 weft seamed (fabric 2, 4) and bias 
seamed samples (fabric 3, 4) are more regularly 
than another S1 seamed samples (Fig. 8). The fold 
numbers of the S2 seamed samples vary depending 
on the type of fabric (Fig. 7). 
 12
 10 
 8 fabric Fig.8. The drape profiles of the S2 seamed samples 
 S2 warp sewn fabric
 6
 S2 weft sewn fabric In most cases, the DCs of S3 warp seamed 
 4 S2 bias sewn fabric
 number of folds of number samples were decreased in comparsion with the 
 2
 DCs of the initial fabrics (except fabric 2), but only 
 0
 12345 the difference is significantly on fabric 5 (3.52%). 
 fabric
 The DCs of S3 weft seamed samples were 
 increased in comparison with the DCs of the S3 
 Fig.7. The fold numbers of the S2 seamed samples 
 warp seamed samples and initial fabrics, but the 
 difference is not much, except the DC of the S3 
 weft seamed sample of fabric 5 was significantly 
 decreased (6.17%). In three directions, S3 weft 
 seams affect mostly the DCs (except fabric 2) (Fig. 
 9). The numbers of folds for the S3 warp and weft 
 seamed samples were equal when compared with 
 fabrics without seam. 
Khoa học & Công Nghệ - Số 12/Tháng 12 – 2016 Journal of Science and Technology 51 
ISBN 2354-0575 
 83
 80
 fabric 1
 77 fabric 2
 fabric 3
 74
 DC (%) fabric 4
 71 fabric 5
 68
 65
 Fwarpweftbias
 direction of seam
 Fig.9. The DCs of S3 seamed samples 
 The DCs of S3 bias seamed samples were 
decreased in comparison with the DCs of the initial 
fabrics and S3 weft seamed samples (except fabric 
5, the DC of bias seamed sample increased about 
2.11% in comparison with the DCs of the S3 weft 
seamed sample). The fold numbers of the S3 bias Fig.10. The drape profiles of the S3 seamed 
 samples 
seamed samples were decreased or remained the 
same. The drape shapes of the S3 weft (fabric 1), ------------------------ 
S3 warp (fabric 2, 3, 4) and bias seamed samples *The authors of this article had measured 
 bending rigidities B of studied fabrics using KES-
(fabric 5) are more regularly than another S3 
 FB2 in another investigation. 
seamed samples (Fig. 10). The DCs of the seamed 
samples on fabric 5 differ in trends because the 12
 10
bending rigidity of this fabric (0.152g.cm2/cm) is 
 8 fabric
clearly higher than the other fabrics (0.066 to 0.08 S3 warp sewn fabric
 6
 2 S3 weft sewn fabric
g.cm /cm). The DCs of all seamed samples on 4 S3 bias sewn fabric
 number of folds number of
fabric 5 were decreased in comparison with the 2
initial fabric. The warp bending rigidity of fabric 5 0
 12345
is clearly higher than the weft bending rigidity fabric
(0.176 and 0.127 g.cm2/cm, respectively)*. 
 Fig.11. The fold numbers of the S3 seamed 
 samples 
 The linear proportional relationships between 
 the DCs of initial fabrics and the seamed samples were 
 found. Most correlation coefficients are significant 
 (Fig. 12, 13, 14). The factors of variable showed 
 that S1 warp seams have more the effect on the DC 
 than S1 bias and followed by S1 weft seams. 
52 Khoa học & Công Nghệ - Số 12/Tháng 12 – 2016 Journal of Science and Technology 
 ISBN 2354-0575 
 85
 85
 82.5 y = 0.6143x + 31.287
 82.5 fabric 1
 R2 = 0.7714
 80 y = 0.8302x + 11.662 80 fabric 2
 R2 = 0.9473
 77.5 77.5 fabric 3
 75 fabric 4
 75 y = 0.5407x + 32.769
 72.5 fabric 5
 R2 = 0.8614
 72.5 70
 fabric-warp sewn fabric
 67.5
 D C of s ewn fa bric (%70 ) fabric-weft sewn fabric
 DC of warp sewn fabric (%) fabric sewn warp of DC 65
 67.5 fabric-bias sewn fabric
 F S1 S2 S3 seams 
 65 
 65 67.5 70 72.5 75 77.5 80 82.5 85 Fig.15. The DCs of warp seamed samples 
 DC of fabric (%)
 In comparison with the DCs of the initial 
 Fig.12. Relationship between the DC of the fabric 
 fabrics, the DCs of S1 warp seamed samples were 
 and S1 seamed sample 
 decreased, except fabric 4, the increase of the DC 
 is not much (0.4%), the DCs of S2 warp seamed 
 82
 y = 0.6445x + 28.446 y = 0.722x + 21.024 samples were increased (except fabric 5) and the 
 80
 R2 = 0.7065 R2 = 0.8638
 78 DCs of S3 warp seamed samples were decreased 
 76
 74 (except fabric 2) (Fig. 15). The drape shapes of the 
 fabric-warp sewn fabric
 72 fabric-weft sewn fabric S1 warp (fabric 1, 5) and S3 warp (fabric 2, 3, 4, 5) 
 y = 0.7525x + 18.116
 70 fabric-bias sewn fabric
 2
 DC of sewnfabric (%) R = 0.9035
 68 samples are more regularly than initial fabrics and 
 66
 65 67 69 71 73 75 77 79 81 83 85 another warp seamed samples. In most of cases, 
 DC of fabric (%)
 the fold numbers of the warp seamed samples were 
 Fig.13. Relationship between the DC of the fabric decreased or remained the same when compared 
 and S2 seamed sample with fabrics without seam, except the S1 and S3 
 warp seamed samples on fabric 5. 
 85 85
 83 82.5 fabric 1
 81
 y = 0.7511x + 17.749 80
 79 fabric 2
 R2 = 0.8974 77.5
 77 fabric 3
 75
 75
 y = 0.4792x + 38.249 fabric 4
 73 72.5
 R2 = 0.594
 71 fabric-wapr sewn fabric 70 fabric 5
 DC of sewn fabric (%) fabric sewn of DC 69 fabric-weft sewn fabric 67.5
 y = 1.096x - 8.5936
 67 fabric-bias sewn fabric
 R2 = 0.9223 65
 DCof weft sewn fabric (%)
 65 F S1 S2 S3
 65 67 69 71 73 75 77 79 81 83 85 seams
 DC of fabric (%) 
 Fig.16. The DCs of weft seamed samples 
 Fig.14. Relationship between the DC of the fabric 
 and S3 seamed sample The DCs of S1 weft seamed samples were 
 S2, S3 bias seams have more the effect on highest, followed by S2 and S3, except fabric 5 
the DC than warp and followed by weft seams. In (Fig. 16). Absolute maximums of the increase are 
three studied seam types, the factors of variable 6.01; 5.44 and 1.3%, respectively. The drape shapes 
also showed that the DC was mostly affected by of the S1 (fabric 2, 3, 5), S2 (fabric 2, 4) and S3 
the S3 bias seams, followed by the S1 warp and S2 (fabric 1) weft seamed samples are more regularly 
bias seams. The S3 weft seams affect at least the than initial fabrics and another weft seamed 
DC. samples. The fold numbers of the weft seamed 
 samples were increased or remained the same 
 when compared with fabrics without seams on five 
 studied fabrics. 
Khoa học & Công Nghệ - Số 12/Tháng 12 – 2016 Journal of Science and Technology 53 
ISBN 2354-0575 
 85 fabric 4, the DC was mostly affected by the S2 bias 
 82.5 seam (1.97%), and was affected least by the S1 warp 
 fabric 1
 80
 77.5 fabric 2 seam (0.4%). For the samples of fabric 5, the DC 
 fabric 3
 75 was mostly affected by the S3 weft seam (6.17%), 
 72.5 fabric 4
 70 fabric 5 and was affected least by the S3 bias seam (0.13%). 
 67.5
 DC of DC bias sewn fabric (%) 65 Linear proportional significant relationships 
 F S1 S2 S3 se a m s exist between the DCs of studied initial fabrics and the 
 seamed samples in the warp, weft, bias directions 
 Fig.17. The DCs of bias seamed samples 
 and S1, S2, S3 seam types. The R-squared value is 
 The DCs of the S1 bias seamed samples on highest as the S1 warp samples were considered (R2 = 
fabric 5 were mostly varied (5.17%). The DCs of 0.947). This coefficient is lowest as the S3 weft 
S2 bias seamed samples were varied not much. samples were considered (R2 = 0.590). If the DC of 
The maximum variation is 2.11%. The DCs of S3 initial fabric increases, the DC of studied seamed 
bias seamed samples were decreased (Fig. 16). sample increases in trend. 
Absolute maximum of the decrease is 4.31%. The The drape shape and the number of folds 
drape shapes of the S1 (fabric 1, 4), S2 (fabric 4) for the seamed samples were varied depending 
and S3 (fabric 5) bias seamed samples are more direction and seam type. The drape shapes of 
regularly than another bias seamed samples. seamed samples were regularly adjusted by S1 
 warp (fabrics 4, 5), S1 weft (fabrics 2, 3, 5), S1 
3. Conclusions 
 bias (fabric3, 4), S2 weft (fabric 4), S2 bias 
 Three types of stitches 301, 401 and 504 
 (fabrics 3, 4), S3 warp (fabric 3), S3 weft (fabrics 
have been employed on five cotton woven fabrics. 
 3, 5) and S3 bias seams (fabric 5). 
The drape coefficients differ between the fabrics 
 Understanding the influence of seam types 
also between the diametral seam types and 
 and their directions on fabric drape behaviour 
directions but the differences are not significantly. 
 would be important for incorporating into the 
For the samples of fabrics 1, 3, the DC was mostly 
 computer simulation of cloth. Further research is 
affected by the S1 weft seam (absolute maximums of 
 required to predict the drape of garments. 
the increases are 3.33 and 6.01%, respectively), and 
was affected least by the S1 warp seam. For the 
samples of fabric 2, the DC was mostly affected by 
the S3 bias seam (4.31%), and was affected least by 
the S2 warp seam (0.09%). For the samples of 
References 
[1]. British Standards Institution, Methods of Test for Textiles - BS 5058:1973. 
[2]. Hu, J. and Chung, S., Drape Behavior of Woven Fabrics with Seams, Textile Res. J., Vol.68, No. 12, 
 p. 913-919, (1998). 
[3]. Hu, J. and Chung, S., Bending behaviour of woven fabrics with vertical seams,Textile Res. J., 70 
 No. 2, pp. 148-53, 2000. 
[4]. Simona Jevšnik and Darja Žuni –Lojen, Drape Behaviour of Seamed Fabrics, Fibers and Polymers, 
 Vol.8, No.5, p550-557, 2007. 
[5]. Ashok Itagi , Arindam Basu, Drape Behaviour Of Silk Apparel Fabrics With Radial Seams, 
 International Journal of Engineering Research & Technology, Vol. 1 Issue 8, October 2012. 
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[6]. Nuray, Ucar, Kalaoglu, Fatma, Bahtiyar, Duygu, Bilac, Ozan Emre, Investigating the Drape 
 Behavior of Seamed Knit Fabrics with Image Analysis, Textile Res. J., Feb (2004). 
[7]. Suda, Noriko, Nagasaka, Tsune, Dependency of Various Sewing Conditions on the Bending 
 Property of Seams, Report of Polymeric Materials Res. Ins., Japan, No. 142, p. 47-55, (1984). 
[8]. R. S. Kaushal, B. K. Behera, H. Roedel, and A. Schenk, Effect of sewing and fusing of interlining on 
 drape behaviour of suiting fabrics, Int. J. Cloth. Sci. Technol., Vol. 17(2), p75- 90, (2005). 
[9]. V. Sidabraite and V. Masteikaite, A preliminary study for evaluation of skirt asymmetric drape, Int. 
 J. Cloth. Sci. Technol., 14(5), p286- 298, (2002). 
 ẢNH HƯỞNG CỦA ĐƯỜNG MAY TỚI ĐẶC TÍNH RỦ CỦA VẢI BÔNG DỆT THOI 
Tóm tắt 
 Rủ là một trong những đặc tính quan trọng của vải có ảnh hưởng đáng kể đến chất lượng của 
trang phục. Cấu trúc các chi tiết mẫu và các đường may có ảnh hưởng nhiều đến độ rủ của sản phẩm sau 
khi may. Xác định được ảnh hưởng của đường may đến đặc tính rủ của vải góp phần xây dựng cơ sở cho 
việc lựa chọn cấu trúc, hướng của đường may liên kết phù hợp với yêu cầu thẩm mỹ và chất lượng hình 
dáng của sản phẩm may. Bài báo này giới thiệu ảnh hưởng của 3 loại đường may liên kết phổ biến lên 
đặc tính rủ của 5 vải bông dệt thoi có khối lượng trung bình. Ba loại đường liên kết được hình thành từ 
các mũi may thắt nút 301, móc xích 401 và 504, được may theo đường kính của mẫu vải hình tròn cùng 
hướng sợi dọc, ngang và thiên 45o. Các đặc trưng rủ của vải ban đầu và vải có đường may được xác định 
theo tiêu chuẩn BS 5058:1973 trên thiết bị ADS-LAST. Kết quả thực nghiệm cho thấy sự khác biệt của hệ 
số rủ của mẫu sau khi may không nhiều, hình dạng rủ và số nếp uốn của mẫu thay đổi khi thay đổi loại và 
hướng đường may. Tồn tại quan hệ tuyến tính đáng kể giữa hệ số rủ của mẫu trước và sau khi may trên 
các vải đã nghiên cứu. 
Từ khóa: Hệ số rủ, đường may, hình dạng bóng rủ 
Khoa học & Công Nghệ - Số 12/Tháng 12 – 2016 Journal of Science and Technology 55